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Its devotees say it is the most beautiful part of the
Philippines. Eighteen islands set in a sparkling jade and
turquoise universe: limestone cliffs like giant mushrooms,
underground streams and caverns, coral reefs, and fine white
sand beaches. This is the El Nido Marine Reserve, home to many
endangered marine species: dugongs, green turtles, and giant
clams.
Beyond the bow of "Gizmo," our 31 foot trimaran, we can see
Malapacau Island shrouded in cloud. It is a small island, only
50 hectares in area, and from seawards it looks like a lopsided
dog bone. Palm trees line the beach, and between them we
glimpse thatched huts amid a blaze of red and orange
flowers.
We are preparing to anchor off the beach when a blond woman in
a two piece swim suit comes from one of the cottages. "Tie up
to the buoy," she calls, and walks down the beach to where it
has been cleared of weed. We row ashore and she introduces
herself. She is Lee Ann Cruz, owner of the Malapacau Island
Retreat. Probably in her mid-40's, she is well built and has a
confident manner. Blond hair straggles down to her
shoulders.
She offers us lunch. It is midday and we are hungry - supplies
in El Nido have been scarce since the ice factory in
Liminangcong burnt down last October. "Take a look around," she
calls from the open air kitchen.
The three hectares that make up the resort are sandwiched
between two limestone cliffs that rise vertically from the sea.
These are the ends of the "dog bone" we saw from seawards.
Behind the row of coconut trees lining the beach we find neatly
trimmed paths that lead through jackfruit and jacaranda trees,
past beds of hibiscus, beneath cane arches, and around circular
huts that belong in an African kraal.
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