Images flashed by: tethered goats, chickens scratching in the
gravel, bamboo poles stacked like teepee's, A-frame chicken
huts arranged in rows - open ended and knee high, glimpses of
the South China Sea through a blur of palm trees, yellow rice
drying on tar-like mats, a girl staring at a dead chicken on
the road.
Well into Ilocos Sur Province the old buildings took on a
Spanish character, or was that just my imagination?
At Santa, the last major town before Vigan, the road climbed
into a range of hills then down and around a bend to a long
steel bridge over the Tineg river, wide and shallow with more
gravel than water. Below men tended fish traps, kids swam, and
a solitary buffalo squatted.
Vigan is about a mile off the highway. We left the bus at the
terminal and asked a tricycle driver how much to Aniceto
Mansion. Five pesos (about 20 cents US). The Aniceto was once a
private Spanish home - wooden construction with windows of
capice patchworked into wooden frames. It was dark and cool
inside. Autographed photos of President Ramos decorated the far
wall. Reception was a single table at the far end of the foyer
near a wide wooden staircase leading to the guestrooms.
We asked the receptionist about Captain Donato. She had never
heard of him.
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